In search of rural Rajasthan, I landed up at an organic farmstay just an hour from Jaipur. Swarms of people greet me as I alight at the Jaipur railway station. Some arrive in the pink city with royal expectations. Some transit through it to seek the desert culture of Rajasthan. And many slyly try to identify first-timers to the city so they can put their touting hat on. I incessantly nod no to the constant soliciting of Madam auto, Madam taxi and Madam hotel, until I reach the exit of the station and someone’s Madam auto soliciting succeeds. I can see his bewilderment when I ask to go to Surya Vatika Road on the highway towards Chomu. The fare negotiation is skewed in my favour for once, because he has no idea where we are going. We drive past the bustling city, past the resorts that line its outskirts. Until we turn off the main highway into a by-lane that winds along vast patches of dry land, barren even at the onset of spring. We …