Culture, Himachal Pradesh, India, Offbeat
Comments 20

Travel Tales From Spiti: Once a Nun.

My summer of volunteer in Spiti leads me to a nunnery in the Morang village of the valley, in the backdrop of snow-hooded Himalayas and on the shore of the Spiti River.

To conceptualize a new volunteer program for Ecosphere, the organization I’m volunteering with, I’m spending an evening with a nun to learn about her life.  I’m a little anxious; the closest I’ve been to a nunnery is in the wanderings of my curious mind, and the last thing I want to do is cross the thin line into insensitivity.

The head of the nunnery asks a young nun to be the victim of my questions and she heartily abides. Dressed in a traditional red and orange gown, with a pretty blue veil, I guess her age almost accurately as 22. We walk to the kitchen, making small talk about the weather, and warm up over tea. She tells me she came to the nunnery 6 years ago, out of her own choice, and has been a student since. Her big dark brown eyes are filled with young innocence that’s hard to miss. As we laugh over trivial jokes, I quickly forget that she’s a nun; we talk about our lives like college students meeting for the first time. I remain conscious enough to leave out the subject of boys, though.

Each day in the nunnery sounds quite similar to the next. The nuns, locally known as Chomus, spend upto 12 hours a day studying Philosophy and English. The highlight of the days is a 1-hour debating session, each morning and evening, in which a rotated panel of 5 nuns sits upfront to answer philosophical questions posed by the rest of the 44 nuns. My young nun laughs and tells me that if the panel is unable to answer a question satisfactorily, the others boo them.

Life isn’t easy in the winter months for these nuns. Temperature falls below -15 degrees at night on average, and surviving without any heating facilities in unthinkable to me. Burning firewood collected over the summer is their sole way of survival. She doesn’t make a big deal of it though, dismissing my sigh by talking about this summer so pleasant; they spend many a night studying outside under the moonlight in the summer.

nunnery, morang village, spiti, offbeat travel

the nunnery with some summer snow in the backdrop.

It’s dinner time at the nunnery and as she gets ready to leave, I ask her if she’d like to take a picture with me. Excitedly, she grabs a red shawl traditionally worn on the head by nuns, and takes off her blue veil. In a split second, the realization of her austere life as a nun dawns back on me. Below her veil, my sub-conscious self had expected to see flowing long hair to complement her young face, instead of her almost-bald head. It steals a few degrees of femininity from her, and as I pose with her for a photograph, I feel just a little guilty of myself. In my fake smile, all my questions come back in a flash. I wonder what she thinks as she looks at herself in the mirror every morning. I wonder if she ever thinks about looking pretty, about being with someone…

nunnery, nuns, morang village, spiti valley, offbeat travel, sherab choling gompa

Perhaps in her alternate universe, life has a meaning that people like me will never discover.

Also read:
Travel tales from Spiti: Entrepreneur at 12.
Travel tales from Spiti: The legend of the moving monasteries.
Travel tales from Spiti: Kaza’s garden lady.

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Shivya Nath

I quit my full-time job in 2011 with a dream of travelling the world. Two years later, I gave up my home, sold most of my possessions and embraced a nomadic life. I'm passionate about going off the beaten path, solo travel, sustainable travel and veganism. Let's connect!


  1. midaevalmaiden says

    I love the words you wrote underneath the photo of the nun!

    I have always thought nuns look beautiful with shaved heads. In their own way, that is.

  2. A life of solitude, simplicity , of prayer and sacrifice is noble and admirable. This nuns chose to leave everything to follow their calling. Not a lot of us are brave enough to that. Great post. To journey that far is just amazing.

  3. Very nice post! Last year when I was there our driver did mention the Chomo monastery while we were passing by Morang but couldn’t make it. I wonder if men are allowed to visit the monastery as tourists?

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  11. Beautifully narrated Shivya…Their reclusive life makes me aware of the fact how much i have complicated my life…Thanks for such posts….

  12. Amazing Post.

    Spiti has been on my mind for so long however, due to hectic work schedule I am unable to travel. Hopefully I’ll be able to travel this year.

    I loved this line where you mentioned – “I remain conscious enough to leave out the subject of boys, though.” You are an amazing observer and a writer as well.

    Thanks for the post. Cheers!!! 🙂

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