Some precious lessons while hiking through remote Uttarakhand villages and living with the Kumaoni people.
In the lower Himalayas of Uttarakhand, I hiked many kilometers through dreamy villages, terraced valleys, deodar forests, secret rhododendron trails and swaying yellow mustard fields. The journey that gave me a peek into the soul of rural Kumaon, and through it, my own.
I met Kumaoni people who live hours away from the nearest road. Women who wake up at 4 am to chop wood and carry it on their heads across daunting terrain. Men who have confronted leopards on a lonely journey home. Elders and kids who can hop, skip and climb down a steep mountain face while I precariously slide one foot in front of the other.
I’m not an avid hiker, but in their warmth, innocence and stories, I found conviction and some precious life lessons:
A stranger is a friend until proven otherwise
I laugh when I think of how nervous I initially was, to find myself alone in Kumaon, amidst strangers again. Ever since the mugging incident in Costa Rica, I found my faith in the world shaken up (Read: Epic Memories from Central America).
But on my first ten kilometer hike through Navgaon, Chachu aka Uday Singh took it upon himself to show me his village. Walking along the narrow pathways, we were stopped by Sarita Bai, who scurried out of the kitchen to meet me, her face covered in black smoke and a wide smile. We talked as though we were long lost friends, she made me promise that I would stay with her the next time, and asked me to take her photo lest I should forget my promise.
Days later, in the villages of Thikalna, Ganghet and the countless others we crossed, I strangely felt like a friend coming home. Not a visitor just passing by. It’s a feeling I’m trying to carry with me wherever I go.
Solitude is a way of life
On my journey, whenever I paused on the summit of a hill to catch my breath, I could spot a solitary house in the distance. Surrounded by nothing but farms and pine trees. A kilometer from the next house and many from the nearest road. I asked Lalit, my guide from one such village near Almora, the question that always struck me. Why do people in the mountains choose to live so secluded? His vague answers didn’t quell my curiosity.
But on my last day in the village of Chalnichhina, by the flames of a dying fire, Lalit, now a friend, asked me why I chose to travel all alone. I found my answer in his curiosity – solitude. We might be different and incomprehensible to each other. But our ways of life are driven by the same inexplicable love for solitude.
Also read: How I Conquer My Solo Travel Fears
For better or for worse, Kumaoni people are in it together
Last month, a visiting doctor in Chalnichhina received a call at 1:30 am from a troubled villager living across the mountain. His friend had collapsed on their way home and desperately needed medical attention. The doctor rushed to the scene, and recommended that the man be taken to a hospital immediately. So the entire village woke up from their sleep, built a makeshift stretcher and carried the man five kilometers through the mountains in the dead of the night. It turned out to be a paralytic attack, and thanks to timely care, the man recovered completely.
Community trumps all else in these parts, for better and for worse. The entire village stands together, whether to dance across mountains for a wedding or to oppose inter-caste relationships. It is hardly a surprise then that atleast six different families from Navgaon village invited me for the same wedding in April. Because it’s everyone’s business, and that is probably a comforting a feeling in this remote, often forgotten Himalayan region.
The ‘village grapevine’ trumps technology!
Functional cellphone network was so hard to find in these parts that I couldn’t check the results of the cricket world cup. While strolling through Ganghet village, two young kids playing cricket demonstrated to me every miss and six in the finals. Followed by expert commentary by the village elders at the local dhaba. It was definitely more fun than scrolling through Twitter!
Often, I would ask questions of Kumaoni people in one village and have them answered in another. Word sure travelled faster than I could. After just three days of being in the region, I went to a shop in the Chalnichhina market. The shopkeeper greeted me with: You’re the girl from Dehradun, 27, traveling by yourself… the village grapevine made me question the power of technology!
The mountains maybe like drugs. The more you experience them, the more you crave them
Maybe you already know this feeling. That familiar tug at your heart the moment you think of the snow-capped peaks lurking behind the mist. The slate-roofed homes hiding deep in the valley. It is why I keep going back to Kumaon, hoping to peel away another layer each time.
But hearing heartbreaking stories of mountain dwellers who sold their land, moved to the plains and fell upon bad times, made me realize the difficult odds faced by the Kumaoni people. Despite how hard the life of people here might be, many of them said that given a choice, they’d rather stay. When unseasonal rains started lashing the region, threatening to destroy the crops that fill their homes and tummies, a village elder spoke wistfully. “Baarish toh dharti ka shingar hai,” he said. The rains are the Earth’s makeup.
Travel Tips: Hiking in the Kumaon Himalayas and Meeting Kumaoni People
One way we can support Kumaoni people to keep their traditional way of life is through responsible travel. That means lowering our carbon footprint as we explore the region by using public transport. And contributing back to rural communities by choosing to stay in local homestays and eat local.
How to reach the Kumaon region of Uttarakhand
Infrequent flights now operate to Kumaon’s Pantnagar airport from Delhi. A more convenient way to get there is to take the shatabdi train from Delhi / Dehradun to Haldwani / Kathgodam. From Haldwani, it’s possible to share a taxi with locals heading home. Private taxis are available at the train station too.
Uttarakhand homestays to live with Kumaoni people
- Itmenaan Lodges Village Walks: I hiked through the remote villages of Kumaon (as detailed in this post) with Itmenaan Lodges near Almora. They’ve refurbished traditional Kumaoni houses with urban comforts as convenient sleepover bases on overnight village hikes.
- Sarmoli Homestays: In the further reaches of Kumaon, in the Munsiyari district, the community-based Sarmoli homestays are raising the benchmark. In the majestic backdrop of the Panchachuli range, explore these hillscapes with female high-altitude and birding guides – a rarity in rural India.
- See other responsible travel companies in India that offer incredible, offbeat and meaningful experiences.
Are you tempted to spend time with the Kumaoni people of Uttarakhand?
*Note: I was invited to hike in rural Kumaon by Itmenaan Lodges. Opinions on this blog, as you can tell, are always mine.
Get my latest article in your inbox!
I’m the founder of this award-winning travel blog about offbeat and sustainable travel, and author of the bestselling travel memoir, The Shooting Star.
In 2011, I quit my full-time job, and gradually gave up my home, sold most of my possessions, stored some in the boot of a friend’s car and embraced a nomadic life.
Connect with me on Instagram to hear more about my adventures and personal journey.