Auroville: Utopia or Something Like It.

I’m not oblivious to the contradictions in the “Auroville utopia”. But where else in India can you live with values of sustainability and no judgement?

I lie across a ledge on the open terrace of Auroville’s Solar Kitchen. Inspiring my words are the soothing melodies of an aged man’s flute. His music attracts chirping birds to the lotus pond below, from their hiding spaces in the surrounding forest. I feel a sense of déjà vu, like I’ve seen this place before, maybe in a story I once read.

I come here on some evenings to read Thoreau in the fading light of dusk. And he to play his flute. We haven’t felt the need to exchange words yet. This is Auroville: a bit like entering a dream, a bit like waking up from one.

Also read: A Guide to Auroville: Slow Life, Volunteering and Organic Food

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Auroville utopia | The man with the flute.

As the sun sets, the night slowly engulfs the shimmering solar bowl. On sunny days, this is literally the food bowl of Auroville. Solar Kitchen below serves organic food cooked with solar energy to the township’s residents. Like many restaurants here, it doesn’t accept cash. Outsiders like us can get an Auro Card made at the guesthouse we’re staying in, and recharge it with cash at the town’s financial services centre.

Some might argue that’s the first step in excluding outsiders and keeping money within the system, but personally, I enjoy the cashless living.

Also read: What the Kumaoni People of Uttarakhand Taught Me About Life

Le Terraza Auroville, Auroville food, Auroville restaurants, Auroville food, organic food auroville
Auroville utopia | Indulging in organic sandwiches at Le Terraza.

As we drive our two-wheeler, often along dirt roads through the forest, it’s hard to imagine that just over forty years ago, Auroville was a barren wasteland.

The visionary thinking of a French lady, Mirra Alfasa – reverently referred to as “the Mother” – has transformed the region into forests and farms, grown organically. Although just an hour’s drive from Pondicherry, the air within the township is so pure that we slept through our first 48 hours!

Also read: Chhattisgarh: Motorcycle Adventures, Tribal Life and a Lingering Sadness

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Auroville utopia | A glimpse of the Matrimandir in Auroville.

Before arriving in Auroville, I wasn’t sure what to expect. Little has been written about it, and I’m slowly beginning to understand why. Even after living here a week, it is difficult to capture in words what Auroville is about, or why I’m staying for another few weeks.

There’s a smattering of guesthouses and quaint cafes. There are centres for the spiritually inclined. And there are plenty of volunteering opportunities on farms, schools, and conservation initiatives. Yet, there’s a sense of space. There’s a sense that even if you choose to do nothing, no one’s judging you.

Also read: Wild, Adventurous and Quirky Things to do in Jodhpur

Arka guesthouse
Auroville utopia | My humble abode in Auroville.

We dabble our feet in a little bit of everything. The basics of organic farming, sustainable food practices, simple living, vegan meals, debates on clean energy, film screenings on world issues.

We have little connectivity, and the internet room closes at 6 pm, along with most cafes and shops. I enjoy the downtime on most days, but feel desperate on some. Truth is, being here inspires me to contemplate life, appreciate the little things, and write.

Also read: What No One Tells You About Publishing a Book in India

Arka guest house
Auroville utopia | Gearing up to write in the study area of my room.

There are stories about the transition of the Aurovillian community since the Mother passed away. About the fate of volunteers, the exclusivity, the bubble that is this township. I’m not judging it so fast, because where else in India can you witness such an incredible effort to conserve nature and live closer to the earth?

I’ve only been here a week, but a part of me already wants to protect this little paradise. A part of me felt elated at seeing visitors who demanded plastic bags and sachets of ketchup, being told off. It is high time we start educating ourselves about the little ways in which we are affecting the environment around us.

I’m not oblivious to the contradictions that spur anti-Auroville debates. I can feel the white-skinned exclusivity. I can tell that even though many of the conservation seeds are sown by Aurovillians, the people harder at work are village folk from the surrounding region.

But that’s the thing with a utopian idea like Auroville. You will always expect more.

Also read: Try These Cafes and Restaurants in Auroville for Divine Food!

Have you witnessed the Auroville utopia? Or something like it?

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  1. I’ve been to Auroville couple of times, but at that time I was either too young, or just generally not ready to understand and appreciate it. I barely remember anything. The last few years, it’s been calling me and I’ve been longing to go back, but just never had the time. This is a very evocative post. Now I’m even more determined to go, hopefully in February!
    All I remember from Pondicherry and Auroville is the clock we were showed, that stopped the moment the Mother died. And I had NO idea Mother was French. Live and learn 🙂

    1. Live and learn indeed! I hear what you’re saying. Visited Auroville back in 2009 myself, but just in passing. Learnt or understood nothing of it. Time for you to revisit soon, I hope!

  2. I have been planning to go to Auroville for so long. You have written a beautiful post, the pictures are great. Cheers

    1. Thanks Avinash. Hope that’ll compel you to go sooner and stay long 🙂

  3. Such spendid images of auroville. I have never been there but it looks like a beautiful place to head to . I love the way you write shivya.. So poetic 🙂

  4. I have been to Auroville – just the Matri Mandir and the exhibition, to be precise – and loved the feel of the place. The place sure does have some great vibrations! That said, we didn’t know what else to do there, where to go. Time was running out, too. Maybe next time, we should explore deeper, into the heart of Auroville.

    Does the Mantri Mandir also arrange for stays? Are you staying at a place associated with Mother’s Ashram? What are the staying options in Auroville?

    Lovely post. Reflects the peace you say you are feeling there!

    PS: I didn’t think of you as a person who would read Thoreau, seriously! 🙂 Surprised and humbled. 😀

    1. I did that in 2009 too, visited Auroville in passing. But now that I’ve been here a while, I have to say that trip didn’t really count. It’s the kind of place you have to stay a week or two and soak in.

      The Matrimandir doesn’t allow for stays, and I’m not staying at the ashram. There are lots of nice and cheap guesthouses here. The picture of green landscapes up there is where I’m staying 🙂 You’ve got to plan another trip. I can imagine you to love it.

      Haha. This is my first book by Thoreau, and at the cost of not being the person you think I am now, I’m not enjoying it as much as I thought I would!

  5. Aradhye Gaurav says:

    Can you tell me what’s the cost of staying in auroville for one week, including everything – for standard rooms?

    1. Plenty of options. I’ll be writing a guide soon with such info.

  6. Kara Freedman says:

    Sounds like a beautiful place to relax and recharge. I think we need more places that are focused on organic living, particularly with the sustainable agriculture that you mentioned. What made you decide to visit this place?

    1. I agree. My plan was to volunteer for a bit, but ended up doing so much more (and in a way, so much less). Overall, it’s been a beautiful experience, and I still have 5 more days to soak it all in.

    1. Thanks for sharing the link! A lovely description of your day trip to Auroville there. And glad that you’re planning to come back and stay longer. I am staying in one of the guesthouses indeed, and loving it here 🙂

  7. I visited Auroville in Sep 2013 and believe me, it was a life changing experience. Although I stayed close to the beach, some 6 kms from Matri Mandir, I managed to spend enough time in the heart of Auroville. Four days seemed too less. Hoping to make it soon. This time not less than ten days. 🙂

  8. I am about to visit Auroville next week as it was my long time wish list. I feel like its calling me since I born. More keen and excited to read this article. My son is more excited then me.

  9. i have been to Auroville manytimes,because i was studying in pondicherry.the place sure do have a awesome vibe to it and the citizens in auroville is also very peaceful and helpful in nature.ans auroville is a great place for meditation and yoga.

  10. Really Really Inspiring Shivya!!!! I’m reading all your blogs and I’m loving it!!! keep traveling and keep writing!!!

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