Non-Touristy Things to do in Cusco to Truly Connect With the City.

Cusco fiesta

I had been up since early morning, working on my research, still in my PJs. I longingly gazed out of the window at the sprawling city below and the mountains beyond, wondering what I should do in the afternoon when I took a break.

Just then, there was a loud knock on my door. It was my Cusceño neighbours, who I’d met in passing and made small talk with a couple of times.

“We’re making an offering today to Pachamama – the Mother Earth,” they said. Would I like to join them?

HELL YES!

Also read: Things I Wish I Knew Before Travelling to Peru

Cusco streets
Life on the charming streets of Cusco.

We walked up some of Cusco’s tiring stairways and a steep trail I hadn’t known before. Along the way, they explained that this day, the 1st of August, is celebrated as the New Year across the Andes. We crossed several houses with yellow flowers or shredded paper sprinkled outside the main door as offerings. Their Inca ancestors used to worship Inti (the sun) and Pachamama (the Earth). When the Spanish colonised them, the sun was replaced by Jesus.

At the top of the hill, we arrived at a large ground next to the old Inca ruins of Sacsayhuaman. For the past 20 years or so, it’s been a tradition in Cusco for locals to gather there to make a collective offering to Pachamama. A large hole was dug in the ground, and people were making all sorts of offerings to Mother Earth – bread, meat, fruits, veggies, wine, beer, coke, coca leaves etc. My neighbors had carried home-brewed kombucha, and offered me some to offer as well as drink – delicious and refreshing after the tiring hike up!

I spent the afternoon watching Cusceños make offerings to the earth and fire, and chatting with my neighbors and their many friends (artists, social workers, lodge managers).

That is the beauty of slow travel. We stay somewhere a while, with no specific agenda in mind, and slowly become part of the fabric of the place.

Also read: The Joy of Slow Travel

Pachamama Cusco
Cusceños make offerings – from bread to beer – to Pachamama.

Unique Things to do in Cusco

I spent almost a month in this stunning city, and could’ve stayed longer. No matter how many days you have in Cusco, these ideas of things to do take you off the beaten path and into local neighborhoods, Indigenous-led enterprises, women-owned restaurants, community homestays, local markets and the city’s coolest cafes.

1. Attend a workshop at an Indigenous arts collective

Xapiri Ground Cusco
Best things to do in Cusco: Look out for Indigenous-led workshops.

In San Blas square, Xapiri Ground is an art house representing the Wampis community of the Peruvian Amazon. Drop by to browse their art exhibits, unique books about Indigenous culture and hand-carved souvenirs. Stay a while to have the best hot chocolate made with Amazonian cacao and oat milk. See their schedule to attend an art workshop led by Amazonian artisans.

I was lucky enough to attend a biojoyeria (bio jewellery) workshop led by Wampis artisans who had travelled out of their Amazon village for the first time! We made intricate bracelets with seeds they’d gathered from the rainforest, using ancient techniques their ancestors once used. It took a ton of time and patience, but was ultimately worth the end product.

Also read: What I Learnt From an Indigenous Shaman in the Amazon Rainforest

2. Try Peruvian food at a farm-to-table restaurant

Nuna raymi cusco
Locally-grown quinoa and kombucha at Nuna Raymi.

At the family-run Nuna Raymi restaurant, try traditional Peruvian food made with ingredients sourced from the Nuna family’s organic farm and neighboring Andean farmers. They promise fair pay, so farmers don’t abandon their farmlands for economic opportunities elsewhere.

In this stunning space full of natural light, I relished a nuna quinoa entrée. They also have vegan anticuchos, seitan meat and of course a ton of potatoes! Vegan options are marked, and some customization is possible.

Also read: How to Travel as a Vegan and Find Delicious Food Anywhere in the World

3. Learn how to weave with natural dyes at a women’s collective

See my short film about Indigenous women-led social enterprises near Cusco!

One of my most memorable things to do near Cusco was visiting the Ccaccaccollo Weaving Community – founded, owned and run by the Indigenous Ccaccaccollo women in the Sacred Valley. About an hour’s drive from Cusco, learn how they obtain alpaca wool, and make natural dyes from seeds, leaves and stones. Once constrained to life at home and in the fields, and reliant on their spouses for an income, ask about their journeys as entrepreneurs.

As a vegan who has visited wool shearing facilities in the past and been appalled by the treatment of sheep, I do feel conflicted recommending a weaving initiative. But having seen stores across Peru selling alpaca products with vague supply chains, I’m hopeful that these women who extract the wool from their own animals do it with more respect, and the income directly supports their livelihoods.

Also read: Everything You Need to Know About Community Tourism

4. Buy local artwork on Cusco’s streets

Cusco artists
Herbeth signs a painting for me with a line in Quechua.

On weekends, many Quechua artists from towns and villages around Cusco and the Sacred Valley make their way to the city to exhibit their art. Look out for artisans in the city’s many squares, as well as in alleyways and by-lanes. I was wowed by some of the intricate artwork I saw, and the conversations they paved the way for.

That’s how I ran into Herberth Ccahuana Quinto, an Indigenous artist specializing in awe-inspiring minimalist art, and bought a stunning painting that adorned my workspace in Himachal.

Also read: Why You Should Stay on a “Local Island” to Truly Experience the Maldives

5. Try your hand at traditional pottery and adobe houses

Tinkuy community tourism
Things to do around Cusco: Visit a Quechua community specialising in ceramics

Despite being located close to the Cusco-Sacred Valley-Machu Pachu tourist circuit, Indigenous communities in the Sacred Valley received no benefits from tourism, until an intervention by the social enterprise Planeterra changed that. They actively sought out communities in the region that could create tourism experiences embedded in their way of life, and earn an income through it. Then they created market linkages with travel companies like G Adventures, to provide a consistent flow of tourists.

Tinkuy Turismo Comunitario is one such enterprise, located in the hills above the town of Pisac in the Sacred Valley. On a day trip from Cusco, I learnt how the Cuyo Chico people still make durable adobe houses using ancient mud-building techniques, along with mud souvenirs burnt into a classic stone kiln, intricately painted by hand. They also bake the best vegan empanadas I had in Peru (order them in advance though, as they run out).

Also read: How I Used HomeExchange to Experience Europe Like a Local

6. Have a lazy brunch at Peru’s best vegan café

Green Point Cusco
Peruvian hot chocolate at Green Point.

I was a happy vegan in Cusco, thanks to Green Point – undoubtedly Peru’s best vegan eatery! Their beautiful outdoor garden space is filled with natural light during the day, and a cozy fire on chilly nights turns it into a romantic restaurant. Their all vegan menu is a reflection of their commitment to keeping their food and suffering footprint low.

It was here that I tried a vegan versions of a classic Peruvian dish: Tacu tacu – made with beans and rice, smoked veggies, marinated mushrooms and grilled white corn. They also did a wicked pad thai, quinoa salad, avo hummus toast, homemade kombucha, sweet croissant and chocolate cake. I’m salivating as I type this!

Also read: Why I Turned Vegan – And What It Means for My Travel Lifestyle

7. Go on a community homestay trek in the Lares Valley

Lares valley homestay trek
Skip crowded attractions like the Rainbow Mountain. Experience stunning nature and the Indigenous way of life in the Lares Valley instead.

One big highlight of my time in Cusco was an overnight homestay trek with Ayni Peru – a small enterprise that has been working with Indigenous families on strong fair trade principles, to offer culturally rich experiences in the Lares Valley.

I loved hiking with an Indigenous guide far off the beaten path, crossing stunning lakes, valleys, villages and high passes, to reach family-run homestays for a glimpse of rural Andean life. We were always welcomed with steaming hot potatoes and coca tea, and earthy conversations. One of the homestay owners I met grew 400 varieties of native potato in his own fields!

Also read: Awe-Inspiring Uttarakhand Homestays: Tune Out of Life and Tune Into the Mountains

8. Sip hot chocolate and people watch at Plazoleta de las Nazarenas

Cusco squares
People-watching at El Cafe de Mama Oli.

Cusco has plenty of squares where locals and tourists gather, and one of my favorites was Plazoleta de las Nazarenas. This small, quiet, intimate square is surrounded by historic buildings, a small park, and a couple of cafes perfect for people-watching.

I whiled away many an afternoon sipping Peruvian hot chocolate at the outdoor seating of El Café de Mama Oli, basking in the winter sun, watching the world go by. It’s also one of the best things to do in Cusco while acclimatising!

Also read: The Perfect 3-Day Goa Itinerary for Slow Travel

9. Try fusion-Peruvian food at an Indigenous women-owned restaurant

Parwa restaurant
What to do in Cusco? Meet the inspiring all-women team running Parwa Restaurante.

Enterprising women of the Huchuy Qosqo community have come together to start Parwa Restaurante – a garden-to-fork eatery with a scenic location in the Sacred Valley, well worth a detour from Cusco. The chef and staff are all women, and whip up a 5-course Peruvian-fusion meal. I was delighted to try the vegan version of the menu, featuring locally-grown quinoa, potatoes, salsas and veggies (indicate dietary needs while making a reservation).

After the hearty meal, walk to their organic garden to see the seasonal herbs and greens used in the food. What doesn’t grow in their garden is sourced from small farmers within the community. The revenue supports the women staff, most of who used to be stay-at-home mothers, unable to travel far away in search of work. Profits also benefit the wider community through investment in solar water heaters and other local needs.

Also read: Inspiring Women I Met in Bhutan – and What “Happiness” Means to Them

10. Buy local superfoods at Mercado San Blas

mercado san blas cusco
Locally grown maca at Mercado San Blas!

Peru’s traditional markets are full of local, organic, healthy and vegan treasures. During the time I spent in Cusco, I often showed up with my boxes and bags to buy fresh fruits and berries, nuts and seeds from bulk bags, and superfoods grown and sold by local farmers around Cusco. Among other delights, look out for locally grown superfoods like black maca and raw cacao – delicious for smoothies!

Many people recommend San Pedro Market, but I found vendors at Mercado San Blas to be calmer, less busy and more friendly. Once you’re done shopping, have a satisfying vegan meal at Govinda Lila, a small stall run by a Limeño woman who lived with the Hare Krishna community for many years. She makes the city’s best lentil burgers.

Also read: What You Should Know About Sustainable Aviation and the Impact of Flying.

11. Go on a solo date at Espresso 18

Cusco rooftop cafes
Good times above the rooftops of Cusco.

Cusco has its fair share of cool cafes, but none matched the views and vibe of Espresso 18, tucked away in a narrow alley. Upstairs, the windows open up to the tiled roof houses common across the city, often drawing in sounds of music and birds. I’m not a coffee drinker, but it was my favorite spot to go on a solo date – featuring refreshing muña (Andean mint) tea and an engaging book. Good times!

Also read: What Solo Travel Has Taught Me About the World

12. Fill your days with long walks and follow the music

Cusco fiesta
The best free things to do in Cusco: Long walks and local fiestas!

My best days in Cusco were ones where I walked up and down the streets of Cusco, into all the little cobbled by-lanes, away from the crowds of the main square area. These walks led me to boutique stores, aerial views of the city, quaint cafes tucked away in courtyards and on rooftops, and many unexpected treasures.

One steep uphill walk not to be missed is the hike up from Cusco to the ancient Inca site of Sacsayhuaman (must see in Cusco – for good reason!), especially on an early morning. I loved walking along the ruins in the morning light, marvelling at the hand-cut and hand-carried huge rock walls, and imagining what a grandiose city Cusco must have been before the Spanish conquest. Sadly, the Spanish colonists destroyed most Inca sites (except Machu Pichu, which they couldn’t find), and alongside it, knowledge of ancient engineering techniques that we still haven’t been able to replicate.

Peru Independence Day
Watching Peru’s national orchestra perform on their Independence Day!

I was also delighted to learn that Cusco is a city of culture and music – that is not just on show for tourists, but an essential part of daily life. Every day or three, music would enter my studio or café window, urging me to follow it. It led me to beautiful flute concerts, fiestas on the cobbled streets, and even a performance by Peru’s national orchestra on their Independence Day! Some nights, I looked up from my workspace, nostalgically watched city lights flash on in the far distance (a very ‘growing up in Dehradun’ feeling), and caught a whiff of music rising up from the city.

Where to stay in Cusco

Pick a neighborhood away from Plaza de Las Armas

I honestly don’t understand how or why tourism tends to get concentrated in one small area in many popular places around the world. Cusco is no exception. The few times I wandered down to the main square – Plaza de Las Armas – and some streets surrounding it, I was disappointed to see the classic signs of overtourism. Swarms of tourists; annoying calls for souvenirs, restaurants and massages; overpriced eateries.

Cusco has so many visually and culturally interesting neighborhoods, that there’s really no good reason to stay close to Plaza de las Armas. My favorites were San Cristobal – a hilly lived-in neighborhood with narrow cobbled streets, and San Blas – an artsy hood where the Incas once brought in artists from around the region.

Choose an accommodation that allows you to slow down

antigua casona san blas
Slow evenings at Antigua Casona.

At 3500m, Cusco is about the same height as Leh – and this high altitude is no joke. When you arrive, move as little and as slowly as possible, and drink a ton of water and coca tea, keeping atleast two full days to acclimatise. So many people get altitude sickness because they’re too impatient, and ‘things to see in Cusco in one day’ kind of articles do them no favor.

Take my advice, and use the high altitude as an opportunity to embrace slow travel. Start by choosing an accommodation that makes it easier to slow down your rhythm:

1. Antigua Casona

Originally built in the 1700s, this crumbling adobe house was refurbished with cactus, mud and straw walls, and hand carved, wrap around balconies, into the eco-luxury Antigua Casona San Blas. The first thing I noticed was the water refill station: A creative green space, reminding people to fill up their bottles with 100% safe water before heading out. Late afternoon, as the winter chill set in, we gathered by the fire in the courtyard, to drink a steaming hot cup of muña or coca tea (on the house for guests) – a reminder to reflect and unwind.

Their creative, locally sourced, organic, vegan-friendly breakfast is the best I had in Peru; think a wide variety of locally grown fruits, avena (oat) porridge and vegan burritos. Every night, we came back to our cosy room, with its breathing mud walls and tiled roofs, to a homemade tea of Andean herbs for the best kind of high altitude sleep! I know it’s not always easy to disconnect from our rushed lives, but some places know just how to create that feeling of slowness.

2. Palacio Nazarenas

An old nunnery turned luxury heritage hotel, Palacio Nazarenas has walls dating back to the Inca period, and frescoes dating back to the colonial era. An experience in itself.

3. Monasterio

Monasterio is an uber luxury hotel set in a 16th century monastery, retaining its Baroque architecture, with a courtyard set under a 300-year-old tree! Besides this chance to live a piece of history, they also offer Sunday brunches with live music.

4. Casa Montes

On a quick transit through Cusco, we stayed at the boutique BnB Casa Montes, overlooking San Blas square. The stay was what you’d expect from a budget hotel – clean, comfy, no frills. I loved our people watching vantage point, but wished they offered plastic-free drinking water and toiletries.

Also read: 10 Days in Japan: An Immersive Japan Itinerary for First Time Visitors

How would you like to spend your time in Cusco? How do you find immersive experiences when you travel?


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One Comment

  1. This article beautifully uncovers the authentic side of Cusco beyond the usual tourist path. A refreshing guide for travelers seeking a deeper, more meaningful connection with the city!

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